The Art of Sushi at Sukiyabashi Jiro
A once-in-a-lifetime experience at Tokyo's most famous sushi restaurant, where 90-year-old master Jiro Ono continues his pursuit of perfection.

The Art of Sushi at Sukiyabashi Jiro
Securing a seat at Sukiyabashi Jiro, the tiny 10-seat sushi restaurant in Tokyo's Ginza district, is nearly impossible. When I finally received confirmation for my reservation (made 6 months in advance), I knew I was about to witness something extraordinary.
The Legend of Jiro Ono
At 98 years old, Jiro Ono is still working, though his son Yoshikazu now handles most of the service. Jiro has dedicated his entire life to perfecting sushi - literally. He's been making sushi for over 80 years, earning three Michelin stars and becoming the subject of the acclaimed documentary "Jiro Dreams of Sushi."
The Philosophy
"I do the same thing over and over, improving bit by bit. There is always a yearning to achieve more." - Jiro Ono
This philosophy is evident in every aspect of the restaurant:
- Rice is sourced from a single farmer who has supplied Jiro for decades
- Fish is purchased from the same trusted vendors at Tsukiji Market (now Toyosu)
- Even the wasabi is grated fresh at the exact moment before serving
- Each piece of sushi is formed with the same precise motion, refined over decades
The Experience
The omakase begins promptly at your reservation time. There is no menu, no small talk beyond politeness, and no lingering between courses. This is sushi as pure expression of technique and ingredient.
The Progression (20 pieces)
Opening Act: Lighter Fish
- Hirame (Flounder) - Delicate and clean, setting the stage
- Tako (Octopus) - Massaged for 40 minutes until tender
- Aji (Horse Mackerel) - Bright and slightly acidic
Building Intensity: Mid-Range Fish
4-12. Various tuna preparations, from lean akami to the most luxurious otoro that literally melts on your tongue. Jiro's tuna is legendary - he purchases entire fish and ages different cuts for varying periods.
The Climax: Rich and Complex
- Kohada (Gizzard Shad) - The test of any sushi chef, perfectly vinegared
- Anago (Sea Eel) - Brushed with nikiri sauce, the epitome of umami
- Tamago (Egg) - Sweet omelet marking the meal's conclusion
The Grand Finale
16-20. Various hand rolls and seasonal specialties
What Makes It Special
The Rice
Jiro's sushi rice is kept at human body temperature (98.6°F) so it blends seamlessly with the fish. The seasoning is so subtle you barely notice it, yet it perfectly complements each topping.
The Timing
Each piece is formed and served the moment it's ready. You're expected to eat immediately - no photos, no waiting. This ensures optimal temperature and texture.
The Technique
Watch Yoshikazu's hands as he forms each piece. The motion is identical every time, perfected through millions of repetitions. The pressure applied, the shape formed, the placement of the fish - nothing is left to chance.
The Rules
- No photography of the sushi (exterior photos are okay)
- Eat immediately when each piece is served
- No soy sauce - each piece is already perfectly seasoned
- Use your hands - chopsticks are unnecessary and improper
- No strong perfume - it interferes with the delicate aromas
- Be punctual - late arrivals forfeit their reservation
The Cost
At 40,000 yen ($275) for the omakase, plus service charge, this is not an everyday meal. But consider:
- You're experiencing the work of a living legend
- Every ingredient is the absolute best available
- The technique represents a lifetime of mastery
- The entire meal takes only 20-30 minutes of focused perfection
Is It Worth It?
This question misses the point. Sukiyabashi Jiro isn't about value or satisfaction in the conventional sense. It's about witnessing the highest level of dedication to craft, where a 98-year-old man still strives for improvement.
The sushi itself is extraordinary - precise, elegant, and technically perfect. But what stays with you is the experience of watching someone who has spent a lifetime pursuing perfection, who continues to work every day not because he must, but because he cannot imagine doing anything else.
How to Get a Reservation
Reservations can only be made through:
- Your hotel concierge (most reliable method)
- A Japanese resident willing to call on your behalf
- Selected travel services specializing in Japan
Book 3-6 months in advance. The restaurant no longer accepts direct reservations from tourists.
The Lesson
Jiro teaches us that mastery isn't about innovation or complexity - it's about the relentless pursuit of perfection in the fundamentals. Every piece of sushi he makes is essentially the same as millions before it, yet he continues to refine and improve.
In a world obsessed with novelty and fusion, Jiro reminds us that there is profound beauty in doing one thing exceptionally well, over and over, for a lifetime.
Final Thoughts
Leaving Sukiyabashi Jiro, I felt not just satisfied, but somehow changed. I had witnessed dedication elevated to an art form, seen how the simple act of forming rice and fish could be refined over decades into something approaching perfection.
Will I return? If given the chance, absolutely. Not because I need to, but because experiencing true mastery - even for 30 minutes - is a rare and precious gift in this world.

About James Chen
Chef turned travel writer, documenting culinary traditions and innovative dining experiences across Asia and Europe.
